Maternity or Not Frock : Neckline & Shoulder Seams


Now that our main pieces and neckline are cut out we are going to go ahead and finish the neckline off.

1- Cut a section of bias tape that will cover the length of the neck hole for one rectangle (add a bit of extra to make sure you have enough).

2- Open the tape at the center fold and place one of your rectangle's fabric's neck edge right into the center fold of the bias tape.

3- Pin the neckline with the bias tape in place.

4- Sew in place. Move your needle all the way to the left. Keep the right edge of the bias tape even with the right edge of your presser foot. Stitch all the way around the neck hole for one rectangle. (It should create a stitch line about 1/2" from the inside edge).

5- Fold the bias tape to the inside of the fabric (you should not see the tape on the right side of your fabric). Pin in place and iron.

6- Stitch in place on the right side of the fabric. I like to do a double stitch because I feel like it looks more professional, but you could just do one stitch line if you want.
- First, place your necks edge against the right side of your presser foot. Move your needle to the furthest right position creating an edgestitch at about 1/4".

Now move the needle to the most left position, keeping the neck edge along the right edge of the presser foot, stitch another line parallel to the first on the top of your fabric.

The finished neckline should look like this:

7- Repeat for the other rectangle (back piece).

8-Take your two rectangles with finished necklines and pin right sides together at shoulder seams.

9- Stitch at a 5/8" seam allowance. Use pincking shears to keep edges from raveling (optional). Press seam open.
10- In order to keep the seam right at the inside edge of the neck flat (it has a tendancy to flip up because of the bulkiness of the bias tape) you are going to make a small stitch line 1" long right where the shoulder seams come together at the base of the neck.
This is what it should look like once it is done:

OK, the neckline and shoulder seams should be finished. In a couple of days we will make the kimono sleeves and the side seams.

1 comment:

  1. Thank you for sharing the instructions with photos. Pretty sure I felt my sewing brain stretch as I was reading!